Very cool. I’m the CEO of Innerscene (https://innerscene.com) and we make a commercial artificial skylight that uses some of these concepts. Actually the coelux ht25 model is almost identical to what you made but using smaller lenses and more LEDs - however the effect they were able to achieve still isn’t that great, the sun looks like a giant orb and once you get a few feet away you can make out a sun at all. We spent a lot of time working on perfect collimation and hiding lens edges and making sure the view into the sky was seamless and artifact free. I’d say the last 10% of that problem is 90% of the work. :). I think we successfully cracked the nut but currently using a lot of expensive parts so working on brining the cost down. If you search Innerscene patent many of our approaches are spelled out. We also spent a lot of time on simulation and software…
Are you guys looking at fabbing your own LED dies?
The actual spectrum of commercial LEDs is all over the place when you start measuring it it with a spectrometer, even when they supposedly have a high CRI. Especially if you want some temperature that isn't 6500K.
It was so bad that when I was building a night light for my eink desktop I ended up using halogen bulbs which I could undervolt. The main issue was that I wanted to be able to shift the spectrum of the lights from natural sunlight at noon, down to candle light at night.
I did have big plans for doing a neural network to control a bunch of LEDs against a reference temperature, but having to build and calibrate a spectrometer and jig as part of a back prop algorithm was a bit beyond my interest, especially since for halogens I just needed a lookup table with temperatures to voltages that worked for all the bulbs from the lot I used.
there are companies that can do custom phosphor formulations for you to target a specific output. The minimum order quantities don’t make it practical for DIY but not too bad for a small startup. Our approach is to mix a bunch of different LEDs together to get the color and spectrum we want. Check out telelumen.com for an example that uses 16 chips. These are designed for researchers
I adore the lights by your company, though they seem to be incredibly hard to source in general except for high end architectural projects. I wish there was an easier way to order them directly for DYI inclined engineers willing to pay the price.
Nitpick, but the image in "Innerscene Health Impacts" is very obviously AI generated, besides any personal opinions on GenAI it just looks bad. I suspect photographing the intern will yield something better.
Well, I think the challenge here is that they need to install the lights in all those settings to take the photo and this would be very expensive. The main purpose is to illustrate uses here, not show the final product. Maybe a disclaimer would help.
Yes! We just announced and demoed a sensor that does just this at LEDucation last week and will be shipping before the end be of the year. It’s called SkySync
I never heard of this concept until this post, maybe because I live in a sunny country (Brazil) but I can totally see the use case for countries in higher latitudes, as the sun setting at 3pm mist be quite depressing for people.
I wonder if you guys did any research on the effects of having your product in these countries. How much would the impact on well being be?
Yes, there is some really interesting research on this topic. It turns out that if blue light centered around 490nm is an order of magnitude more effective at treating SAD.
Not joking. Do these artificial sunlights help with the allergies? If yes and if it's not insanely costly I'd just try to get something like that for my bedroom during allergy seasons which most often coincides with no sun (winter, rain here). Even in those seasons when the sun comes out in its glory, the allergies (which mostly is my nose turning into an infinite source of salt water), which were driving me stark raving mad since days - at times weeks, might just vanish within an hour. Yeah, w/o even stepping into the sun. (And no, I am not D deficient.)
Hmm, never heard that before, I’ll have to research it more. Maybe the UV from sunlight is killing something you are allergic to. We don’t have UV for safety and energy efficiency reasons but you could try buying some strong UV lamps and see if that helps. Ideally you turn them on when you are out of the room so they don’t damage your eyes or cause cancer.
I would suggest you make sure you don't have any indoor mold. Mold in an apartment caused me problems some years ago. My understanding is that outdoor/natural mold is perfectly fine for most people (including me), but molds tend to incorporate whatever they consume into their spores, because molds prey on other molds so they try to arm themselves.
The problem is with manmade stuff like sheetrock, where the mold grows and then incorporates the binder chemicals into their spores, which are too small to see and yet get inhaled and then leech into our sinuses or whereever.
I've had problems in both work and home situations. I was tested and confirmed allergic; I don't think most people are, but it was rough for me. I'm always on the lookout for those water circles in drop ceilings; they're notorious mold colonies. Once a natural material stays wet for 12 hours, molds will begin to grow.
Just something you might be able to check off your list. Good luck.
Can either of your products be used on a table top or shelf or something like that w/o doing an installation? I saw your product priced at lightingdesignonline at a price I can afford, but I am in an apartment I rent that I cannot easily do renovations on. I don't care about the appearance of realism, just high quality light.
Pricing is ‘contact us’ and going to be region-dependent. I would expect to pay ca $ 10^4.5 for a panel that produces the ‘virtual sun’ effect. Same goes for competitors (I know of Coelux but maybe there are others. Not sure how quality/price compares). But maybe GP will reply to you.
This is simultaneously really cool technology, like a hyper-specialized analog light field display with health benefits, and yet there's also something dystopically unsettling about the sun being faked by a machine in a box.
Please don't have your marketing department destroy the real sun. Doing so would break antitrust regulations.
Yes! We started out building light field displays and originally used digital displays (arrays of micro LCD screens) - the result was super awesome but had a long road to becoming becoming a commercially viable product so pivoted to analog use cases which are a lot more energy efficient meaning we could achieve a lot brighter output.
I'm very impressed that Innerscene provides LM-63 data for your artificial skylights. Is there any chance you'd be open to providing Spectral Similarity Index scores for your skylight? I think it would really differentiate your product and show how much your company cares about quality.
We provide full 1nm resolution SPDs in our download section so you can do any kind of calculations you want. Worth noting the SPDs change a lot depending on the color temperature of the light. In terms of similarity, trying to match sunlight exactly is not ideal because UV is bad for you and IR is a lot of water energy that can be produced in other ways more efficiently. For energy efficiency we focus on the spectrum that is most important for humans (versus plants, fish, etc). This is mostly the visible spectrum as align with our cones and the blue spectrum aligned with our ipRGCs. Most people don’t know about ipRGCs so we have a research page about this here:
https://www.innerscene.com/research
For the visible spectrum we target 90+ CRI for the full CCT range (3000-40,000k) but it goes as high as 98 and even R9 goes up to 9& as well. You might find this content about ipRGCs and melanopic light interesting
I was thinking of building my own, but you might have saved me from that. I couldn't find pricing for the modules on the website, but, if possible, I'd love to discuss this. My e-mail is easily findable on my profile. Also, there are no agents in Ireland.
Hi, I couldn't figure it out on your site but on the picture where you have your hand under the virtual sun[1], do you feel the warmth of the "sun" on your hand as you'd feel it with the real sun?
No, there is no IR to speak of, however a lot of people tell us they feel warmer when they stand under it - just a psychological effect but interesting to observe
I'm curious, why do you only sell via agents and provide no rough pricing information online?
I suspect that there are other people like me out there. Forcing me to talk to an agent to just get an idea of the price, even if I'm willing to pay a fair amount, is an automatic pass. A buy now button though, I'd be willing to do that and then discuss anything else.
wow, these look awesome (on your marketing page ;))
I understand the pricing might depend on many factors including the location and the agent, but could you give a ballpark, such as "don't start looking for an agent if you want to spend less than X?"
What I learned over time is that if a product/service requires contacting an agent or a salesperson, then its price is only affordable for businesses and is not intended for regular consumers.
Does this actually give you the same intensity as sunlight? Or well, close enough to it that the light can diffuse into the rest of the room? In my experience my 4000lm projector doesn't have anywhere near the intensity to properly approach sunlight.
Outside direct sunlight can be 100,000 lux. With one fixture if you are standing in the sunbeam you are more likely to be at 2000 lux which is a long way off. You can add more fixtures to increase the light you are getting. However it turns out that one of the most important parts of natural light is “melanopic lux” which comes from light centered around 490nm (blue), if you get more or this spectrum it can have the same effect as having a lot more light from a low blue
Light fixture. (I.e typical 2700k bulb)
Some info about this;
https://www.innerscene.com/products/circadian-sky/CircadianS...
There is now a lot of research that looks into how much of this blue light you need and architects are starting to incorporate this into
Building designs.
Thanks! It’s powder coating that gives it a super clean look, great for sales demos but I’d suggest that anything not visible from the room side should be cost optimized
It’s infuriating that you only have “accept all cookies” and no other options.
Oh but I do absolutely love this concept. I’m curious if you’ve had lots of interest from these billionaires building bunkers, if that story is even true!
Not a bunker per say but I recently learned that in some states/cities you don’t pay property taxes on square footage below ground so you end up with people building more space below than above ground and Virtual Sun can make it feel like above ground space. Just visited a billionaire project last week where this was the case.
For me, the problem with this setup (and with most high efficiency LED lights) is the lack of red wavelenghts. Real sunlight has a substantial amount of energy in the very red end of the visible spectrum (700 nm) and also of course quite a bit in the infrared. These lamps have two spectral peaks: a narrow peak in the blue range, around 450 nm, a broader peak in the green, centered around 580 nm. That greenish peak falls off sharply, and has almost no energy in the red end.
The color sensitive cones in our eye have three peaks of sensitivity, the S cones in the blue range, the M cones in the green, and the L cones in yellow. The L cones are what your brain uses to see red colors, but they are actually pretty insensitive to deep reds like 700 nm. That’s why you THINK that LED lamps produce red, because they stimulate your L cones, but they do so without actually emitting much red energy at all!
Our bodies are sensitive to deep red light. The cytochrome in our mitochondria respond to it. There’s an experiment where shining red lights on the skin improved sugar metabolism. That makes sense, because we naked apes evolved under red-rich sunlight.
So these lamps may look like sunlight, but they’re missing some crucial wavelengths.
That's a good point, but not much I can do about that. Such a DIY project is limited to off the shelf LED suppliers. It would be cool to do such a lamp with both the high CRI and some infrared, also for heating (infrared lamps are a thing after all).
I don’t think manufacturers will make LEDs with strong deep-red emission. If they made LEDs that emitted lots of red light, they probably would have a peak in the red end of the spectrum. But since they’re not monochromatic single-wavelength sources like lasers, there would be a spread of wavelengths around that red peak, including substantial infrared emission. And that IR emission makes heat, and now you’ve created an inefficient lamp, similar to the old incandescent filament lamps.
Again, another regulatory decision that makes a niche worse off overall....
Abuses of a carve-out aside, having a "Sunlight mimicking" exemption would solve this, with the added conditions that they have to actually stick to the EMF outputs of the sun to get this approval. The article itself does this with “General Wellness Lamps”.
Otherwise, the only non-reg way to solve this would be to find infrared & red LEDs and make the supplementary light sources yourself.
> These lamps have two spectral peaks: a narrow peak in the blue range, around 450 nm, a broader peak in the green, centered around 580 nm. That greenish peak falls off sharply, and has almost no energy in the red end
The second peak is near 650nm and while it drops fairly quickly there is still decent amount of power at even 700nm. In short, they perform far better than your stereotypical crappy white LEDs.
Yes, I saw those spectra. No, I don’t see very much energy emitted for wavelengths >700 nm.
If you look at spectra for stereotypical crappy white LEDs, they’re really no different. Everyone uses the same light emitting compounds, it seems to me.
In comparison, the LEDs chosen by the OP have a fairly poor power distribution spectrum. At 4000K the color temperature is also too low to mimic daylight, which is at around 5500K. This is all well as an artistic choice but probably doesn't get you any benefits for seasonal affective disorder.
If the metric you're looking for is most accurate spectrum including deep red, near and far infrared (heat), then a good old incandescent filament light is the most efficient device. Not LEDs.
In the winter a couple incandescent lights per room is often enough to warm it up. I went out of my way this winter to "seal up" my house, and the equivalent of 2-3 bulbs per room is enough to keep them livable - with a sweater and a cap, and maybe socks. I cannot stand artificial heat, something about kt makes me physically uncomfortable, and i just want to leave an area with artificial heat. I'm fine with fires and incadescent bulbs, though.
I saw "artificial sunlight" and thought "oh wow I'd love to see the spectrogram of the lighting solution this person came up with". I was disappointed to merely see "CRI 95+".
This is great video on the shortcomings of "CRI" - it explains in detail CRI, CRI extended, TLCI, TM-30, and SSI.
Brightness and color temperature are only two small parts of lighting - more people should start investigating the utility of taking their own spectroscopy measurements to figure out what lighting works best for them personally. My friends have very, very diverse opinions on what spectral distributions they like/hate, but they lack the language and experience to identify or communicate their preferences except for "Ooh I like/hate this bulb".
I mostly use LED bulbs to keep heat generation down (I pay for the heat twice in Houston: once to generate it and again for the A/C to negate it). But I always mix in a bit of incandescents / halogens (2400-3000K) which provide full-spectrum blackbody radiation to see ALL the wonderful colors in my world.
Do you have any insight on how to take spectroscopy measurements at home on a <1k€ budget? And how to select an LED manufacturing supplier when CRI is often the only thing available on the datasheet?
Starting points for first question: Look into i1Pro (later models of the first generation), which can be had for $200-400. Combine with some free or $99 Windows/Mac/Android software [0] [1].
Second question: It is still too hard even to find CRI for most offerings. It's pretty much a "buy, test, return the ones you don't like" situation. If independent reviewers start publishing spectrograms and making YouTube/etc videos, perhaps the industry will move forward some day.
A little garden spectrometer is pretty good, and around $60: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxQmaJYMOAk . And the LED supplier should give a spectrometer graph. If you can get a dual peak LED that will give a better spectrum distribution. The Amaran 200x S is one of the best.
The luxeon 2835 website that’s linked in the article has a data sheet for the LED source. Scroll down and you’ll see the spectra for various subtypes of that source.
With some LEDs, and especially the warm whites, I get this feeling of „artificiality“, for lack of a better word. Like the surroundings are somehow fabricated. It’s an interesting idea to mix and match those with other light sources, I‘m going to try that.
I think most people at least know the difference between warm and cool light, which helps a lot, but otherwise I agree. As I’m reading this, I’m realizing I have no vocabulary for this topic. That’s… kinda strange to experience!
Really cool! I'm working on a lamp that gives you daylight levels of light indoors (albeit no raleigh scattering and columnated light). On the bright side (pun intended), it's 50,000 lumens instead of ~4500. https://getbrighter.com/
Nice to see more high quality indoor light options. Any idea how you guys compare to this one? https://getchroma.co/products/skylight. I've got some of their other products - I'm generally been pretty happy with them but they do tend to be fairly pricey.
He hasn't given a spectrometer graph? When you ask him for one he can't seem to be bothered by something so basic either. I don't think he would beat an array of 4 amaran 200x S lights on light output or spectrum quality beyond the dimming method.
If you have a chance to chat with the staff again, I notice their marketing language says "Nearly perfect spectrum matching with daylight" - but they don't publish a Spectral Similarity Index. They only claim a (relatively low) CRI of 90+.
Edit: In other materials, they claim a very high CRI of 95+. Also the advertised wattage is sometimes 400W, other times 500W.
I have a 200W LED flood light and it was the most depressing thing to shine indoors. EVERYTHING was covered in dust and filth that you wouldn't see under normal-intensity light. It felt like things had collapsed and I was surveying the remains of someone's house.
500 watts! I won't need a heater any more if I turn one of these on. I had a 10k lumen led matrix lamp, but I found that it completely threw off my natural rhythm to sit under it for any length of time. It felt like it was perpetually early morning.
I'm 100% your audience for this, all I want is for it to be able to automatically adjust it's color temperature throughout the day and I'd replace every Hue bulb in my house with it - can it do that?
Yep you can schedule it to get brighter/dimmer and warmer/cooler from your existing [Matter compatible] smart home system, and with HomeKit adaptive lighting you can have it follow the sun.
The brightness enhancement film is a transparent optical film. It consists of a three-layer structure. The bottom layer of the light-incident surface needs to provide a certain degree of haze by back coating, the middle layer is a transparent PET substrate layer, and the upper layer of light-emitting cotton. It is a microprism structure. When the microprism layer passes through the fine prism structure of the surface layer, the light intensity distribution is controlled by refraction, total reflection, light accumulation, etc., and the light scattered by the light source is concentrated toward the front side, and the unused light outside the viewing angle passes through the light.
So, it's similar to your design, but the grooves are very small.
EDIT: After reading the article, I see the OP calls out DIY Perks specifically - the OPs design is much more compact :)
> It's compact. The total size is 19cm x 19cm x 9cm. This is quite compact for a 5cm focal length and an effective lighting area of 18cm x 18cm. Reflective designs like the DIYPerks video or commercial products like CoeLux do not achieve this form factor.
It uses a trash can plus a super-bright LED bulb plus a plastic book magnifier.
The main trick is that you can get a big magazine-sized flat plastic fresnel lens for like 10 bucks.
The original poster's solution is definitely better, but it's also possible to do this on the cheap with no 3D printing (or in fact, any skills whatsoever).
> the main thermal issue when scaling up would be the cooling of the power supply itself, not of the lamp
If I would be scaling up that device, I would consider an ATX power supply. These are relatively large and typically include an active cooler inside, but they can easily supply hundreds of watts at 12V, often have an on/off switch on the back, are relatively inexpensive (at least unless you need much more than 500W of power), and are available everywhere. Usually, you just need to connect the PS_ON wire with the ground to make them turn on once powered.
You really don't want to wire up power supplies like that in parallel because tiny voltage fluctuations could (read: would) cause all of the current to be drawn from one or the other instead of evenly distributing between them. You can, however, wire server power supplies up in series (I have done it successfully) with relatively more success, even though it's still not the greatest idea.
Personally, I would avoid it if possible. Even if they are of the same model, small discrepancies may cause their +12V to be slightly different. At the very least, will cause very non-uniform load distribution.
Luckily, seems the OP only needs one. The current light only uses 36W @ 12V, even if they make the new light 10x more powerful, a single 400W PSU should do the job nicely.
At that point you might be better off getting a power distributor from an old server that was already designed to operate off redundant 12V power supplies. But you wouldn't want the server PSUs themselves due to the tiny loud fans.
I would pick a CDM bulb any day over the alternatives, including LED, unless power consumption is an issue.
“
Philips daylight CDM lamps are extremely efficient ceramic metal halide lamps with a spectral output close to natural sunlight. As a result, plants form more lateral branches, have smaller inter-nodal spacing, more flowering sites, and larger root systems, culminating in strong, healthy growth and high-quality yields.
Philips CDM bulbs have an amazing operating life. They maintain their high output for a lifespan of 30,000hrs on average.”
Readit News
The actual spectrum of commercial LEDs is all over the place when you start measuring it it with a spectrometer, even when they supposedly have a high CRI. Especially if you want some temperature that isn't 6500K.
It was so bad that when I was building a night light for my eink desktop I ended up using halogen bulbs which I could undervolt. The main issue was that I wanted to be able to shift the spectrum of the lights from natural sunlight at noon, down to candle light at night.
I did have big plans for doing a neural network to control a bunch of LEDs against a reference temperature, but having to build and calibrate a spectrometer and jig as part of a back prop algorithm was a bit beyond my interest, especially since for halogens I just needed a lookup table with temperatures to voltages that worked for all the bulbs from the lot I used.
I have real skylights on one side of my house and would love to put these up on the other but it would be weird to have sunny skies mixed with cloudy
Subtle, nice. Maybe you can give the man a job. ;)
https://www.innerscene.com/papers/lux-vs-wavelength-in-light...
Because we recreate the blue sky there is a lot of light in this spectrum
[0] https://www.google.com/search?q=sun+tube
The light here looks really good, but the cheaper (less nicer) alternative is just a powerful (natural) LED light - search for SAD lights
The problem is with manmade stuff like sheetrock, where the mold grows and then incorporates the binder chemicals into their spores, which are too small to see and yet get inhaled and then leech into our sinuses or whereever.
I've had problems in both work and home situations. I was tested and confirmed allergic; I don't think most people are, but it was rough for me. I'm always on the lookout for those water circles in drop ceilings; they're notorious mold colonies. Once a natural material stays wet for 12 hours, molds will begin to grow.
Just something you might be able to check off your list. Good luck.
Please don't have your marketing department destroy the real sun. Doing so would break antitrust regulations.
https://www.innerscene.com/products/circadian-sky/CircadianS...
[1] https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x97hx8g (from 39 mins in)
[1] - https://www.innerscene.com/_next/image?url=%2F_next%2Fstatic...
I suspect that there are other people like me out there. Forcing me to talk to an agent to just get an idea of the price, even if I'm willing to pay a fair amount, is an automatic pass. A buy now button though, I'd be willing to do that and then discuss anything else.
Here is a video showing the units suspended in the air https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e0p4rsx31cqag42cklc61/A7_free...
Deleted Comment
Oh but I do absolutely love this concept. I’m curious if you’ve had lots of interest from these billionaires building bunkers, if that story is even true!
The color sensitive cones in our eye have three peaks of sensitivity, the S cones in the blue range, the M cones in the green, and the L cones in yellow. The L cones are what your brain uses to see red colors, but they are actually pretty insensitive to deep reds like 700 nm. That’s why you THINK that LED lamps produce red, because they stimulate your L cones, but they do so without actually emitting much red energy at all!
Our bodies are sensitive to deep red light. The cytochrome in our mitochondria respond to it. There’s an experiment where shining red lights on the skin improved sugar metabolism. That makes sense, because we naked apes evolved under red-rich sunlight.
So these lamps may look like sunlight, but they’re missing some crucial wavelengths.
Abuses of a carve-out aside, having a "Sunlight mimicking" exemption would solve this, with the added conditions that they have to actually stick to the EMF outputs of the sun to get this approval. The article itself does this with “General Wellness Lamps”.
Otherwise, the only non-reg way to solve this would be to find infrared & red LEDs and make the supplementary light sources yourself.
Check figure 1h in the datasheet of the LEDs author used https://otmm.lumileds.com/adaptivemedia/832eef99dd3139f98fa9...
The second peak is near 650nm and while it drops fairly quickly there is still decent amount of power at even 700nm. In short, they perform far better than your stereotypical crappy white LEDs.
If you look at spectra for stereotypical crappy white LEDs, they’re really no different. Everyone uses the same light emitting compounds, it seems to me.
In comparison, the LEDs chosen by the OP have a fairly poor power distribution spectrum. At 4000K the color temperature is also too low to mimic daylight, which is at around 5500K. This is all well as an artistic choice but probably doesn't get you any benefits for seasonal affective disorder.
Which means they're also not going to give me a tan... bug, or feature?
The nice thing about them is that they're flavour changing
Deleted Comment
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH_owRxupC0
This is great video on the shortcomings of "CRI" - it explains in detail CRI, CRI extended, TLCI, TM-30, and SSI.
Brightness and color temperature are only two small parts of lighting - more people should start investigating the utility of taking their own spectroscopy measurements to figure out what lighting works best for them personally. My friends have very, very diverse opinions on what spectral distributions they like/hate, but they lack the language and experience to identify or communicate their preferences except for "Ooh I like/hate this bulb".
I mostly use LED bulbs to keep heat generation down (I pay for the heat twice in Houston: once to generate it and again for the A/C to negate it). But I always mix in a bit of incandescents / halogens (2400-3000K) which provide full-spectrum blackbody radiation to see ALL the wonderful colors in my world.
Second question: It is still too hard even to find CRI for most offerings. It's pretty much a "buy, test, return the ones you don't like" situation. If independent reviewers start publishing spectrograms and making YouTube/etc videos, perhaps the industry will move forward some day.
0: https://www.argyllcms.com/doc/instruments.html#i1p2
1: https://rmimaging.com/spectrashop_brochure.pdf
Edit: In other materials, they claim a very high CRI of 95+. Also the advertised wattage is sometimes 400W, other times 500W.
The brightness enhancement film is a transparent optical film. It consists of a three-layer structure. The bottom layer of the light-incident surface needs to provide a certain degree of haze by back coating, the middle layer is a transparent PET substrate layer, and the upper layer of light-emitting cotton. It is a microprism structure. When the microprism layer passes through the fine prism structure of the surface layer, the light intensity distribution is controlled by refraction, total reflection, light accumulation, etc., and the light scattered by the light source is concentrated toward the front side, and the unused light outside the viewing angle passes through the light.
So, it's similar to your design, but the grooves are very small.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bqBsHSwPgw
EDIT: After reading the article, I see the OP calls out DIY Perks specifically - the OPs design is much more compact :)
> It's compact. The total size is 19cm x 19cm x 9cm. This is quite compact for a 5cm focal length and an effective lighting area of 18cm x 18cm. Reflective designs like the DIYPerks video or commercial products like CoeLux do not achieve this form factor.
It uses a trash can plus a super-bright LED bulb plus a plastic book magnifier.
The main trick is that you can get a big magazine-sized flat plastic fresnel lens for like 10 bucks.
The original poster's solution is definitely better, but it's also possible to do this on the cheap with no 3D printing (or in fact, any skills whatsoever).
If I would be scaling up that device, I would consider an ATX power supply. These are relatively large and typically include an active cooler inside, but they can easily supply hundreds of watts at 12V, often have an on/off switch on the back, are relatively inexpensive (at least unless you need much more than 500W of power), and are available everywhere. Usually, you just need to connect the PS_ON wire with the ground to make them turn on once powered.
Luckily, seems the OP only needs one. The current light only uses 36W @ 12V, even if they make the new light 10x more powerful, a single 400W PSU should do the job nicely.
Dead Comment
It was discontinued for a while but I’m happy to see it’s back in production?
https://www.futuregarden.co.uk/philips-ceramic-discharge-met...
I would pick a CDM bulb any day over the alternatives, including LED, unless power consumption is an issue.
“ Philips daylight CDM lamps are extremely efficient ceramic metal halide lamps with a spectral output close to natural sunlight. As a result, plants form more lateral branches, have smaller inter-nodal spacing, more flowering sites, and larger root systems, culminating in strong, healthy growth and high-quality yields.
Philips CDM bulbs have an amazing operating life. They maintain their high output for a lifespan of 30,000hrs on average.”
I replaced my HPS/MH setup with a CMH light and used it for a few harvests. Never had any issue.