Note that I'm not claiming the leaves are necessarily bad. They make pretty good mulch and such. But, without tending to uncover the smaller plants, they do a pretty good job of killing the things below the tree.
Note that I'm not claiming the leaves are necessarily bad. They make pretty good mulch and such. But, without tending to uncover the smaller plants, they do a pretty good job of killing the things below the tree.
I feel like the conventional wisdom that this is a response to environment(conserve energy/lower wind resistance) make more sense than "offensive deterrent for competing plants" even more so when you consider that every leaf dropped is biomass that the tree had already taken in and utilized, but now it's giving it up. Maybe a pro-symbiotic move whereby dropping the leaves provides shelter/biomass for beneficial insects that could provide root aeration or soil enrichment would be another reason?
Regarding the dropping of biomass, in both deciduous and evergreen species, some of the substances from the retiring leaves/needles are reclaimed by trees ("retranslocation") and pulled out of the leaf before letting go of the leaf. In species like pines it'll be the second or third (or older, sometimes much older) retiring needles and in species like maple or beech it'll the be the entire foliage. Mass useful to soil ecosystems still falls but the tree grabs what it can in the late months of the year, hence the color change.
One thing the grandparent comment doesn't talk about much is the cost (in sugar) of both building and thereafter maintaining leaves and the related tradeoffs. Building a fully winter-tolerant broadleaf is more expensive sugar-wise than building a winter-interolerant leaf. A sugar maple in Quebec, where the season is shorter than (say) Oregon is going to compete in its niche better if it can attain surface area quickly at the start of the growing season, and that is better done with a winter-intolerant, more relatively delicate leaf. An evergreen leaf takes more time and mass to build and has to have more limited surface area or armor (cuticle) to tolerate such winters.
In my time studying bonsai (past 7-10y) in every winter (Jan-Mar) I've repotted (anywhere from partial to full bare rooting, partial to full root structure editing) many PNW-native deciduous trees (alders, bigleaf + vine maples, cottonwoods, etc) as well as non-PNW-native deciduous (birches, beeches, elms, maples, hazels, hornbeams, stewartia, bald cypress, cherries/plums, quinces, snowbells, etc). In somewhat-mild-and-milder climates there is always some root growth going on. Such winter root growth is much more aggressive in conifers, particularly pines, but also in spruces, cypress-family species (junipers).
Here's a diagram from a paper showing scots pine and rowan/ash adding either root or vegitative growth in various parts of the year:
Temperate trees collect or spend carbon in the warm parts of the year, i.e. between bud-break and mid-summer. In cooler parts of the year, they do various things: store it in the wood, move it around (redistribution + retranslocation), spend it (future-season buds + cambium + root expansion) or carefully avoid spending it (dormancy).
Even in these periods they're still collecting sunlight if they can, quite a few deciduous species can photosynthesize at least a little bit directly through their bark -- young twigs have much thinner bark even in trees that get very rough bark (eg: black cottonwood). And evergreens are collecting sunlight any time mild-or-warmer conditions are in play.
Trees are active in some shape or form any time they are able to be. If you live in USDA hardiness zone 7 or warmer and have trees/shrubs outside you can notice this more easily than in colder climates (where the grow/no-grow seasons are more sharply bounded). Roots are not the only thing expanding in winter. Take a picture every day of a branch on a deciduous or evergreen tree and you'll see bud expansion.
Nanite is Unreal’s implementation of a similar thing. The README even links to Unreal’s implementation in the references section.
That said, olives would probably work well for it, considering their growth habit. Only as art, mind you, my wife and I'd fight over the one olive per year for the celebratory dinner salad.
The known-good techniques that produced long-term bonsai don't in any way whatsoever resemble the naive approach of "trimming" in the hedge pruning sense. This (along with the mistake of growing indoors) is why the vast majority of the public concludes bonsai is a dark art / impossible. Guessing at bonsai is like throwing rocks at a computer hoping that C code will just "happen" somehow.
If you have a sun-facing outdoor garden, know what the term "binary tree" means, and can describe a tree in terms of a data structure (nodes etc), then you have within you the ability to learn bonsai for realsies if you make contact with people who do it in real life. Olive bonsai trees are relatively common in mediterranean-climate bonsai scenes, like that of California's bonsai scene: https://bonsaitonight.com/2023/10/20/preparing-an-olive-for-...
Trees like this are not grown on kitchen counters or in living rooms. _Maybe_ in a world-beating cannabis tent, but the hassle is extreme, and (going back to the topic of this thread), fighting diseases in the indoor cultivation environment is much much harder than outside.
My motivation is fire suppression. But they look better and the yard feels more peaceful to me after the treatment. I don't know why. Maybe I could study with the Japanese to understand it, but I'm not sure it matters.
I am currently working as a software engineer in the UK (I'm from Hong Kong) for the past 2 years and am actively considering the following:
1. Getting a Masters degree in US then work in US with STEM OPT and apply for Green Card through employer; or
2. Moving to Canada, become a citizen in 3.5 - 4 years then apply for TN status and work in US, then try to find a good timing for Green Card application
If my intent is to settle in the US, which route would you recommend me to go through?
Thank you so much for your time!
For that reason, if your goal is ultimately the US, focus on the US, because you will otherwise be adding _many_ years to the process.
One very notable asterisk to the above: If, while applying for a GC, your spouse is from a no-backlog country (born in Canada, UK, or other no-backlog countries), then your application can essentially adopt that country as the birth country, and you can get through the GC process in a relatively short time (all other things equal).
From your perspective "good timing for a green card application" is ASA-F'ing-P.
My wife had a similar thing happen (not a TN visa though). The immigration lawyers got to work and she was allowed to try again a couple weeks later. This time the officer agreed with the assessment that she was qualified for that visa type. The original officer had a very narrow perspective on how a certain job title was defined that was not inline with how most companies operate.
If your company has a Canadian office, the lawyers could try getting you on an L visa. Or there's an E visa. Once you're on one of those visas then your company can sponsor a green card. Green cards are much more stable and they're easier to renew. Then citizenship if you want to go that far.
We are inheriting about 50-100 bonsai plants from father. All my life I’ve been wondering how he’s been caring for them, but never gave a chance to actually learn from him.
He is not doing well and we don’t know how many years he has left.
That’s why 2026 will be the year of finally learning the craft from him, taking time to acquire his techniques and in general just spend more time with him.