Readit NewsThis seems very low for the kinds of epoxy I've used. I wonder if the manufacturer specs are highly conservative? Or maybe the material has a shortened lifespan with even moderate temperatures?
I was thinking about the ABS in the article and wondering if I would have made the same mistake. Close to every car manufactured today has plastic intakes, usually bolted right on top of the engine. The incoming air should help keep it cool, especially on aircraft. Maybe it was the radiant heat from a nearby cylinder that melted it?
The whole point of 3D printing is that the material is moldable when hot but rigid when it cools. And people really should be aware that engines get hot.
"Two samples from the air induction elbow were subjected to testing, using a heat-flux differential scanning calorimeter, to determine their glass transition temperature. The measured glass transition temperature for the first sample was 52.8°C, and 54.0°C for the second sample"
Yeah, they might have used ABS-CF filament, but unless they got it from a good brand that uses good resin and proper printing parameters, the actual Tg will be lower, plus the stress from the vibration/load could have made the part fail if it was not for the heat later in flight.
Polymaker Polylite ABS has a claimed Tg of 101°C but the HDT curve clearly shows it starting to lose strength at 50°C, for example.
Certainly seems questionable to use any 3-D printed plastic material for exhaust. That’s absolutely going to be too hot.
edit: It was ABS-CF, which shouldn't be used under stress long-term in higher temperatures than maybe 65-70°C, or lower depending on the blend.
The scale change one will be easy to sort out. The black one is a little harder, sometimes the adsb data comes in corrupted.
I never knew about the boil auto-shut-off mechanism and the overheat/"boil-dry" protection circuit being two different things in some kettles. In those, pouring out the entire water before the auto-off had a chance to kick in can cause a situation where the kettle stays on (due to not enough steam being present to trip it), but the boil-dry protection circuit continuously engages and disengages until somebody notices or the thing self-destroys – ours did the latter.
Now we have one with a switch at the bottom, and I'm hoping that due to that construction, the boil-dry protection will also disengage the switch if needed. (It also helps that the switch automatically disengages when lifting the kettle off its base.)
It also has a function to hold temperature for up to 30 minutes, and because it has actual logic going on inside, when you lift it off the base it knows this and won't turn back on when you put it back.