Very clear APIs and syntax(with the possible exception of blocks which can be weird because they aren't quite functions), and tons of raw metaprogramming powers.
You can argue it sacrifices too much of the other things to deliver on these things, but it's hard to argue against it doing well at what it optimizes for!
man, people are still parroting decade old, incorrect talking points I see.
Is ruby as performant as C, probably not, although, actually, in some cases, it outperforms C -> https://railsatscale.com/2023-08-29-ruby-outperforms-c/
One of the largest ecommerce apps in the world runs ruby, shopify. Ruby now has a JIT, there has been insane effort put into making ruby faster.
Someone just needs to put that in a car. We've also got lidar based cruise control systems to maintain distance as well as panic brake systems that can react to something in front of the vehicle faster than a human, which is partially there to account for people texting and driving while flying up on a red light with stopped traffic.
We have all the tech needed to make it damn near impossible for a 2 ton mass of steal to just unflinchingly mow someone down, yet we live in a world where it's cheaper to not make those things standard, even knowing without it, more people will die than with it.
Bench bleeding involves straightening the lines and orienting the components along the lines, the master cylinder especially, so that air bubbles can flow up thru the lines by gravity and then using a tool to tap the lines and dislodge any bubbles so that they flow up to the fluid reservoir. I decided to hack the process using that back massager to speed up the gravity flow of any trapped air instead of using a screwdriver to tap the lines as they do in the official maintenance procedures. I also left all the parts in the vehicle making access to some curves or bends very difficult. That is why I used the PVC. It allowed me to transfer the vibration to the lines all along the length without removing anything from the vehicle.
I had already tried the usual pumping the clutch and cracking the bleeder valve process and though disappointed, was not surprised to have no success since it usually only works when the air is trapped low in this system inside the clutch slave cylinder near the bleeder valve, not higher up in the section containing the clutch master cylinder.
you can get fancy with a vacuum too but one person on the pedal pumping and one person on the bleeder, you'll get all the air out.
if you've been working on cars since the 70s, you'd know that what you're saying about "the usual pumping the clutch and cracking the bleeder valve process" being bad is nonsense. If you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder good enough, you're going to be bleeding things for awhile. Also, if you're dealing with abs, junction blocks, or bleeding wheels out of order you're going to be there awhile.
clutch systems are a single line going from a mc to a hydraulic fork actuator. They take a whole 10 minutes to bleed starting from bone dry and you don't need to tap the air out, that what bleeding them is doing
One of my vehicles uses a hydraulic clutch. By design, air bubbles can be trapped in the master cylinder due to factory bends in the lines and the orientation of the master cylinder when it is properly installed. If this happens it will be impossible to shift the gears (manual transmission) until the air is bled from the lines.
I tried multiple air burping procedures without success. Part of the procedure involves tapping on the hydraulic lines to help dislodge air bubbles so they can flow up and out of the lines into the fluid reservoir. The area is tight and in order to do this efficiently you must remove the master cylinder from the vehicle.
I decided to avoid that removal step and employ a Sharper Image back massager as a tool to dislodge air bubbles with the system in place in the vehicle. Since that massager is huge it would not fit into tight places under the hood so I used a length of PVC pipe held tight to the lines to transfer the vibration to the lines. This allowed me to get large air bubbles out of the lines. In the end I was not able to remove enough air using this hack because an O-ring near the bottom of the system is missing or bad and that allows air to enter and flow up so i could vibrate that thing all day and never get anywhere. It was a shot in the dark anyway. If that O-ring were not missing or bad I know it would work.
ps, if you haven't annihilated your syncros, you can 100% shift without the clutch, just "burp the throttle" when you want to shift, meaning, let off the gas, change gears, back on the gas.
shifting up anyway.
downshifting is another story, as is starting from a stop, though I've had good luck with a disabled neutral safety switch and stopping in neutral, turning the car off, pop into 1st, start when the light turns. Hell on the starter and battery, but sometimes it's the only option.